One of the best things about living in a fashion capital is the opportunity to see top fashion shows. And you won’t see many better than the exquisite ‘Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams’ exhibition held at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. It was a huge success: 594,994 people visited the exhibition, which smashed Victoria & Albert Museum’s previous attendance records. The previous attendance record had been held by Alexander McQueen’s exhibition Savage Beauty in 2015. ‘Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams’ opened 2 February 2019 and had been signalled to close 14 July but when tickets for the whole season sold out in only 19 days, it was extended by a whole seven weeks until 1 September. Although many missed out, I was fortunate enough to be there and see it all.
Biggest UK retrospective of Dior
It was the biggest ever retrospective of Dior to be held in the UK, showing the fashion house’s then 71-year history and influence. It showcased over 200 haut couture gowns and over 500 pieces including fashion illustrations, magazines, costume jewellery, hats, perfume and photographs. The exhibition included designs from 1947, the year that Dior launched his ‘New Look’, to the present day. ‘Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams’ exhibition expanded the 2017 exhibition held in Paris by 60%, the key difference being that for the UK, gowns showing Christian Dior’s interest in British fashion and culture have been added, including the dress he created for Princess Margaret’s 21st birthday, on loan from the Museum of London. Although he was a French designer, Dior did live here for a short time and it’s made clear how big an influence the UK had on his work.
“There is no other country in the world, besides my own, whose way of life I like so much. I love English traditions, English politeness, English architecture.”
— Christian Dior
“I adore the English, dressed not only in the tweeds that suit them so well, but also in those flowing dresses in subtle colours, which they have worn inimitably since the days of Gainsborough.”
— Christian Dior
Historicism
Dior was inspired by the past, incorporating lines from the style of the Belle Epoque. There are many references to the eighteenth century by Dior and his successors. Dior’s premises had a neo classical façade and white and grey panelling, the same architectural style as the Petit Trianon on the grounds of Versailles. Dior’s fondness for a romantic, elegant and extravagant silhouette can be traced back to the influences of the Belle Epoque.
“I thank heaven I lived in Paris in the last years of the Belle Epoque.”
— Christian Dior
Flowers and femininity
Since childhood, flowers and nature in general were of great significance to Dior. Flowers were a big motif, one of the ‘codes’ for the fashion house’s look (together with Travel and Historicism). What’s interesting to know is that he often sketched his designs in the garden. In the exhibition, the Garden section has a striking backdrop of lilac flowers hanging from the ceiling. Flowers inspired his dress designs as well as the floral accents of the Dior fragrances. It may surprise you that Dior’s New Look was inspired by the silhouette of an inverted flower, with cinched in waists and bell-shaped, petal-like long skirts.
“After women, flowers are the most divine of creations.”
— Christian Dior
“You can never really go wrong if you take nature as an example.”
— Christian Dior
“Perfume is the indispensable complement to the personality of women, the finishing touch on a dress.”
— Christian Dior
Designers for Dior
The ‘Designers for Dior’ section included garments from Christian Dior’s six successors: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simmons and its current creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri. It was helpfully explained that each designer had been chosen by taking into account their differing design approach and how they would interpret the original ethos of the House of Dior. It was one of the highlights of the whole exhibition.
“My dream? To make women happier and more beautiful.”
— Christian Dior
Ballroom glamour
My favourite part was ‘The Dior Ball’, in the final section, where formal evening gowns were showcased in a light installation. The gowns included Charlize Theron’s ‘j’adore’ gown from the perfume ad campaign she did in 2008, dresses worn by Rihanna and Elle Fanning at the Cannes Film Festival as well as dresses worn by a range of huge stars, including Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, Nicole Kidman, Lupita Nyong’o and Emma Watson.
The Ballroom section then had a big surprise lined up. Thanks to glimmering lights being projected across the floor, walls and ceilings and the dresses themselves, for an immersive and glamorous experience, the room was transformed from day into night in just moments, complete with celestial sound effects.
Conclusion
Dior’s designs were beautiful, magical and dazzling. Everything I could have hoped for and more. It was incredible to experience so much creativity and fashion history under one roof. ‘Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams’ was a wonderful tribute to the most gifted of designers.
“Deep in every heart slumbers a dream and the couturier knows it: every woman is a princess.”
— Christian Dior
